Pastry Chef and Owner of Shift Kitchen & Bar, Dara Wong, believes in putting the kitchen in front of the guests…which is exactly what visitors of Shift will find. 

“There’s a disconnect, I think, in dining out when you don’t get to see where your food comes from and you don’t get to talk to the chefs,” Wong says. “You don’t get to see how meals are made. It’s an art, and I think there are a lot of restaurants that don’t show that art.”

Shift musts:

• Order the pickled fries (you will not regret it!)
• Try the Bison Bone-In Short Rib, with pumpkin polenta, short rib jus, pomegranate and acorn squash chip
• Consult with Shift’s team about the best wine and cocktail pairings for your meals (Chef Wong has vast knowledge of wine and spirits)

Shift has become a rapidly growing Downtown Flagstaff favorite — for the food, certainly — but also because the dining experience under Wong’s direction is a form of artistry in which patrons immerse themselves. 

Shifting perceptions of the dining experience

One of the first things you notice about Shift is the chef’s counter. Here, visitors aren’t just diners — they are spectators. In front of them, Wong and her kitchen crew prepare menu items for all to see. I was able to observe Wong curating a decadent jalapeño cheesecake dessert.

This shift, from hidden prep, cook and serve to a visible, interactive dining concept is — if you haven’t guessed — part of where the eatery got its name. But that isn’t the whole story. 

“The menus change quite often — more than seasonally,” Wong explains. “If we find a different product that we like more from a farm or different purveyor, we want to change the dishes. We want guests to keep coming in more than four times a year. We want to see them frequently.”

The pairing of Shift’s open kitchen concept and alternating menus has created a dynamic that Wong describes as a “casual atmosphere with a fine dining/hospitality and plating style.” And we agree. 

Sweet + savory + acidity = flavor harmony

Each plate is a vignette to the greater tapestry that is Shift — each menu item has a story that blends beautifully together. Part of this blending comes from Wong’s approach to the culinary arts. 

As a self-proclaimed pickling enthusiast, Wong likes to play with chemistry, combining flavors in unique and sometimes even opposing ways. 

“My staff jokes around saying, ‘Oh, you’re not putting a pickled thing on this dish today?’”

But there’s a method to her food pairing madness.

“You have salt, you have sweet, you have bitter, you have umami, and then you have acid,” she says. “People cook with some of those things, but they’re not using all of them. To me, that’s what makes a good dish — when you have all of those things. There should be a little sweet something and a little bit of acid.”

The manifestation of Wong’s ingredients results in palate-dancing results, such as (our personal favorite) pickled fries. If you’re wondering if they taste like actual pickles, yes they do, and we’re here for it! 

Shift’s scallop dish is another BOSW favorite, featuring an incredible marriage between the inherent sweetness of the scallop combined with a delightful punch of pickled cauliflower — divine!

One of Chef Wong’s superpowers

Many things make Chef Wong successful, but not many people know that dyslexia happens to be one of them. 

“Being dyslexic has changed the way I operate the restaurant,” she says. “The way I process things and see operations are a little bit different. I think that’s what partially makes us successful [at Shift].”

Wong adds that much of her comeuppance has been due to how much dyslexia challenged her to overcome obstacles and work that much harder in all she does.

“I was in special education when I was younger, and really learned how to overcome some learning disabilities,” she explains. “I think that’s helped me now through all of the hard work.”

Wong says that understanding more about how dyslexia has — and continues — to play a part in her life has illuminated positive aspects of herself, serving as character assets rather than defects. She’s especially attuned to how the ability to organize in a unique way works in her favor. 

“I’m extremely organized,” she says, “and the reason is because I can’t remember anything. I write every single thing down. I have massive to-do lists on my phones — personal and business. And that’s how I can successfully manage and support my teams and have a successful business.”

Skill and detail in every Shift meal

In addition to her keen organizational skills, Wong simply knows how to curate delicious dishes, where every detail shows. 

While we have our clear favorites — pickled fries and scallops — Wong has a few of her own, including, a shared love of her tangy fries, providing a true-to-life description: “They’re soft inside, crispy on the outside and vinegary!” 

“The second item would be the savory sorbet,” she says. “We change the flavor often. Right now, I just spun some tarragon sorbet, and that comes with a little goat cheese and extra virgin olive oil and sea salt.” 

Wong notes that Shift is the perfect place to be adventurous, try new things and share in a compassionate dining atmosphere.” We want to create an experience together. And I think it takes both sides,” she says.

Be sure to check out our Instagram page @thebestofthesouthwest for a look at Shift’s dishes. And visit shiftflg.com for more information.