Field Trip Friday: St. Helena
In addition to regular stories on all things that make the Southwest shine, each month The Best of the Southwest takes readers on a weekend getaway, sharing the ultimate itinerary for a destination either a quick drive or short flight away, in a column we are calling Field Trip Friday.
Today’s field trip: St. Helena.
St. Helena Musts:
- Stay at the cozy, picturesque Harvest Inn
- Indulge in the prix fixe pairing option at Brasswood Bar + Kitchen
- Embark on a winery tour of a lifetime: ONEHOPE, Clif Family Winery and more
Destination: St. Helena, Northern California
Most folks hear “wine country” and think of two regions in the U.S.: Napa and Sonoma.
However, Northern California’s Napa and Sonoma — which border each other — are entire counties, not just wine regions. Within each county are multiple American Viticultural Areas (AVAs), each with its own personality, attractions, activities, eateries and — of course — wineries. Napa has a total of 16 AVAs within its county lines, including St. Helena.
Located in nearly the center of Napa’s sprawling wine region, St. Helena is home to more than 400 vineyards and tasting rooms — best-known for its red wines, predominantly its Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Syrah, Zinfandel. However, do not sleep on its Chardonnays or Sauvignon Blancs.
Getting there: Four airports from which to choose
St. Helena is less than two hours from all three of Northern California’s Major International Airports: San Francisco International (SFO), Oakland International (OAK) and Sacramento International (SMF).
However, if there is a chance to fly into Santa Rosa Airport (STS), take it! This growing airport — themed for Charles Schultz’ Peanuts gang — is only about 45 minutes from gate to St. Helena grapes, door to door. Oh, and don’t leave before taking a photo with the massive Snoopy art installation in the baggage claim/rental car area.
Stay: Harvest Inn for all the feels and meals
If seeking to stay directly in the middle of the vines in the heart of St. Helena, Harvest Inn is a spectacular option. Cozy yet regal, the eight-acre resort is limited to about 80 total rooms and suites but is set up as its own picturesque community with four “neighborhoods” of sorts: The Fountain, The Vineyard, The Grove and The Manor. Visually, each space is connected in clever ways, weaving in intricate brick and stonework and stained woods with both the surrounding vines and lovely water features.
There are also two pools on property as well as hot tubs — including some available on the balcony of one’s room — and an absolute banger of a restaurant in Harvest Table, offering al fresco dining at its finest as well as one of the sneaky best cocktail menus in wine country.
Dine: Shining chef reputations for ultimate foodcations
The diversity of bites across St. Helena are wild (and wildly delicious).
Press Restaurant needs to be on every foodie’s bucket list. The Michelin-star eatery boasts chef-partner Philip Tessier, who likely needs no introduction (but here is one just in case). The global inspiration is clear, but the dedication to all things local is what really makes the eatery stand out.
Brasswood Bar + Kitchen is another wow. Located on the Brasswood Cellars estate, there is a seasonally changing lunch and dinner menu, notably with a prix fixe pairing option should the entire table want to take part in a communal culinary adventure.
Named for the chef-founder Elliot Bell’s son, Charlie’s is a neighborhood restaurant at its core and atmosphere, but given the pedigree of Bell — he is the former executive sous chef at French Laundry — the food is mind-bending in its layered flavors and sense of place.
Other musts: Farmstead at Long Meadow Ranch, Violetto, NO/MA house Cafe & Collective and the Culinary Institute of America’s Gatehouse Restaurant.
Do: Venture out on a winery tour of a lifetime
Certainly, the region boasts lovely hot air balloon tours, art galleries and museums. But, let’s face it, St. Helena is all about wine experiences above all else. And my goodness, do they have some doozies. Given wine and food go hand in hand, many smart vineyards in the area set themselves apart by offering a culinary component.
Despite opening its tasting room in 2020, ONEHOPE has beat the odds to become a true destination winery in California. The brand is the brainchild of several friends who wanted to create the first large-scale, impact-driven winery in the region by donating a portion of every sale to nonprofits worldwide. To date, ONEHOPE has contributed more than $10 million to 40,000 important causes and counting.
The feminine, light, bright space feels more like an estate than tasting room, and that is by design. It’s important to book ahead here as guests are by reservation only. There are currently two tasting options: Iconic Introduction and Wines and Bites. The Iconic introduction is true to its name, offering three wines paired with local cheeses, charcuterie and seasonal picks from its estate garden. However, go big with the Wines and Bites if possible. This is a full-on private wine and food pairing with the chance to interact with the estate chef, walk through the winemaking facility and the best chance to hear about the brand’s global impact firsthand.
Bonus: the winery is extremely dog-friendly in all of its outdoor tasting spaces. In fact, if a guest’s four-legged friend joins the signature Wine & Bites experience, the chef will create an edible surprise for the pup while serving insane bites and sips to its humans.
Yes, Clif as in CLIF Bars.
The Clif Family behind this innovative vineyard operation is one and the same. And guess what? There is no Clif family, well not exactly. CLIF Bars are named to honor Clifford Erickson, Clif Founder Gary Erickson’s father, who introduced him to his passion for all things adventure and outdoors. Mind blown, right?
Now, onto the wine!
Erickson and wife Kit Crawford — a driving force behind the CLIF family brand for more than 30 years — founded Clif Family Winery in 2004, growing it to 90 acres of estate vineyards and five acres of vegetable gardens, olive trees and fruit orchards while remaining laser-focused on sustainability and hospitality.
A visit to Clif is very much like one of those “Choose Your Own Adventure” books in that there are three wholly different tasting spaces from which to choose, not to mention a food truck available several days a week to complement its wines and regular live events in line with tastings. Between the three spaces — the primary, bicycle-themed indoor tasting room, the expansive patio and the private Enoteca behind the tasting room — it can be hard to decide where to start.
For the most memorable of experiences, go for the Enoteca Pasto e Vino reservation. It offers insane views of the vineyard as well as the Mayacamas mountain range. This is a full-service, farm-to-table lunch using the best of its organic garden and estate wines. There is also a slightly smaller tasting available, but just as delicious! Insider tip: they are exceptionally adept at dietary restrictions, especially if needing plant-based options, and they even have a mocktail flight to pair for those who prefer not to imbibe.
For those unfamiliar with the Davies family, they are the rock stars leading Schramsberg in the Calistoga AVA of Napa and widely considered the preeminent sparkling wine house in the U.S. They are also the brains behind what is quickly becoming one of the premier still-wine operations in the U.S., thanks to Davies. Led by winemaker Hugh Davies, the brand is crafting some of the most drinkable Cabernet Sauvignon in Pinot Noir in town.
The tasting room is new by Napa standards, opened in 2017, and made from local cobblestones and reclaimed wood. The interior is a modern marvel thanks to its floor-to-ceiling glass, chandeliers and commercial kitchen. Given it’s part of the Schramsberg family, guests have the chance to taste both brands in this singular location. There are combination tastings available daily, but if visiting over the weekend, book the Wine and Caviar brunch. It pairs both bubbles and still wines with Regiis Ova caviar as well as small bites of both sweet and savory delicacies one would likely never attempt at home.
While the word “Martini” is prominent with this brand, make no mistake that Louis M. Martini is all about wine.
Its namesake is a true pioneer. In addition to founding what has become one of the most lauded red winemakers in the nation, Martini is the founder of the Napa Valley Vintners Association, which helped create the Napa we know today.
The tasting room first built in 1933, was meticulously restored in 2019. The result is a breathtaking glimpse into Napa’s storied history and physical representation of its continued ascension into the future. The winery boasts executive chef, Aaron Meneghelli, and the man is a magician with flavors, understanding how to use ingredients to elevate each of Martini’s varietals and vintages to a whole other level. When it’s warm, the outdoor cabana tastings are sublime. If a chill is in the air, book the Crown Collection or Underground Cellar experiences, each of which allows Meneghelli to stretch his culinary muscles, giving each of the wines a sense of place. Insider tip: make sure to check out artist Rosa Barba’s three-part, immersive art installation on property while visiting.
This fall, Annulus will make its debut in St. Helena. Annulus, from the Latin term for “ring,” refers to the winegrowing cycle that extends from dormancy to bud break to veraison and to harvest. It’s inspired by the circle of family and friends with whom proprietors Luke Evnin and Deann Wright — long-time area residents and renowned scientists — gather to share and appreciate wine, and honors exceptional, historic, family-owned Napa Valley vineyards.
Tastings of the limited collection will be by appointment and reservation only, and absolutely worth it! During a tasting, guests are hosted at the beautiful, green-certified Wheeler Farms in St. Helena. During this 90-minute tasting, guests are intimately introduced to Annulus’ singular expressions of Napa’s heritage vineyards and the winemaking artistry of Nigel Kinsman and Michel Rolland. And yes, there are small bites, too!
Hello, chateau!
This organically focused winemaker houses its tasting room in an awe-inspiring space modeled after a chateau one might find in Bordeaux, France. There, guests can sip and sample the brand’s full line-up of award-winning Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Sauvignon Blanc in style. All reservations are intimate by design, with one offering a personal presentation of estate wines for tasting by a knowledgeable wine guide and the other — aptly called At the Table — takes place around a bountiful table and offers the exclusive chance to taste Ehlers’ most sought-after wines with complementing seasonal dishes over several courses.
For more information, visit sthelena.com.
