In addition to regular stories on all things that make the Southwest shine, each month The Best of the Southwest takes readers on a weekend getaway, sharing the ultimate itinerary for a destination either a quick drive or short flight away, in a column we are calling Field Trip Friday. 

Today’s field trip: Russian River Valley. 

Russian River Valley Musts:

• Stay at Montage Healdsburg with forest views in every direction and tranquil relaxation suites
• Visit the opulent Bubble Room at J Vineyards (indulge in their artisan cheese pairing)
• Book a reservation at La Crema at Saralee’s Estate where guests can sample sparkling wines with oysters

Destination: Russian River Valley, Northern California

Often, people talk about “wine country,” meaning that picturesque portion of northern California about an hour to San Francisco that is two wholly different – and massive – counties in Sonoma and Napa. While often confused as one city or region, Sonoma is a large county spanning nearly 1,800 square miles across northern California. Within its borders are valleys, rivers, coastline and 18 distinct American Viticultural Areas (AVAs) with more than 425 wineries and vineyards. Each of these AVAs, and sometimes a group of them together, has its own unique climate, attractions and adventures, with the area called Russian River Valley in Northern Sonoma County along the popular Wine Road especially bewitching. 

The Russian River Valley boasts more than 90 wineries across approximately 14,000 acres, not to mention nearly endless luxe lodging accommodations, hundreds of award-winning eateries, and myriad outdoor adventures. 

Getting there: Three airports from which to choose

Given all of this, coupled with daily direct flights from several cities across the Southwest to the area’s Charles M. Schulz–Sonoma County Airport, the region is quickly becoming a favorite weekend getaway for those in the know. No flight directly into Sonoma airport? No problem, as both the Oakland and San Francisco airports are just an hour or so away by car. 

Stay: Rich history mixed with tranquility and sustainability

There is a resort, hotel or even vineyard residence for every type of traveler in the region. Of note are Vintner’s Resort, Montage Healdsburg, h2hotel, Harmon Guest House and The Ruse.

The AAA Four-Diamond Vintner’s Resort recently completed a lavish $17-million renovation across its 92 acres that added additional ultra-luxe accommodation options and gave the entire property a gorgeous facelift. It also upgraded to add the stunning 5,000-square-foot, full-service Vi La Vita Spa. Even with all its upgrades, it has lost none of its wine country charm. Bonus: it’s still home to John Ash & Co. as well. When it opened in 1980, John Ash & Co. was the first restaurant in Sonoma to produce seasonal menus utilizing ingredients from nearby producers. 

Montage Healdsburg is similarly stunning. Opened in 2021, it celebrates its natural surroundings with forest views in every direction and tranquil relaxation suites while still offering big-city amenities, including an 11,500-square-foot spa, a state-of-the-art fitness center, zero-edge pool and Hazel Hill — a visually stunning restaurant already earning national acclaim, and for good reason! 

Oh, it also has a treehouse. Yes, really. And yes, it is luxury on a whole other level. 

The sky-high home away from home is the crown jewel of luxurious lodging options at Montage Healdsburg. At 4,635 impeccably appointed square feet and lifted off the ground to allow for one-of-a-kind views, each of the Guest House’s three bedrooms offers ample outdoor space with their own balconies as well as marble-covered bathrooms, oversized free-standing bathtubs, separate walk-in showers.

There is also a fourth half-bathroom and fully equipped kitchen and pantry space, which may be stocked with local, artisanal goods, wine and other goodies upon request for an added fee. The Guest House, which is consciously designed and decorated to complement and enhance the surrounding natural elements, also boasts an expansive dining room, fireplace and massive living area both inside and out. Outside guests are delighted to find a wrap-around balcony, loungers and hot tub with massaging jets. 

Both h2hotel and Harmon Guest House are in downtown Healdsburg — perfect for those who want to walk around the buzzy community and its fabulous shops, bars and restaurants. h2hotel is tailor-made for those seeking a sustainable stay. The LEED NC 2.2 Gold Certified Green property is intimate and extraordinary with just 36 eco-friendly rooms. Each has its own balcony or patio, hypnotizing water features, complimentary continental breakfast and Spoonbar, which is an al fresco marriage of Mediterranean and American flavors using as many local ingredients as possible, notably from Front Porch Farms, Russian River Organics and Skyhill Farms, among others. 

Harmon Guest House is a touch north of h2hotel, and in addition to similarly well-appointed rooms, it also boasts six spectacular suites, including the Founder’s Suite, which is 750 square feet of ultimate relaxation that comes complete with a primary suite, two large flatscreens, locally made spa products and daily continental breakfast delivered to the door. There is also a solar-heated pool, Creekside terrace and swoon-worthy rooftop lounge. Truly, it is effortlessly chic. 

The Ruse is a boutique experience at its best. It features just 11 rooms — seven in its main mansion and four suites off the main property near the putting green and heated pool — so team members can focus on providing an immersive, custom experience for every guest. Beyond the putting green and pool, the property features bocce, pickleball courts, badminton and an airy entertainment pavilion. 

Drink: A guide to the Russian River Valley’s best wineries and more

Ready to get tasting? Let’s get started…

J Vineyards and Kendall-Jackson are two mind-bendingly beautiful settings in the area. They help set the standard for hospitality across Sonoma’s various wine countries. Both are less than five minutes from the local airport as well, meaning they are the perfect bookends for a visit to the area.

At J Vineyards, the focus is sparkling wine and pinot noir, and the best way to enjoy it is with their artisan cheese pairing or in the opulent Bubble Room, among the prettiest indoor spaces in the area (honestly, one of the prettiest places in the country) that offers James Beard-level bites that please every possible palate.

Kendall-Jackson feels like an adult Disneyland. The best way to enjoy it is via a combination tour of the farm and garden followed by lunch. The tour takes guests through sensory areas where each item grown in a particular area is meant to evoke the aroma or flavor profile of a specific varietal grown on property.  Insider tip: if the fabulous store on property has a copy of Kendall-Jackson master culinary gardener Tucker Taylor’s book, it is worth every penny! Buy one for sure. 

Any visit to Russian River Valley must include also a stop at Gary Farrell Winery, a Wine & Spirts Magazine Top 100 Winery in the World. Founded in 1982, the vineyard predates the appellation earning its AVA status (that didn’t happen until 1983) and started with Farrell himself crafting the wine. Today, the winery is owned by local icon Bill Price and a team of investors and deftly led by an award-winning winemaker. Before sipping on the wine, take a moment to drink in the views from the tasting room, which sits atop a mountain ridge so high it feels as if in the clouds.

Once seated, there are two tasting options: Exploration and Elevation. During the exploration, you will taste Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs, and during the elevation, six extra-special Pinot Noirs will be enjoyed with cheese pairings. 

Another visual masterpiece: Notre Vue. Believe it or not, the sprawling property has its own nature preserve, which is home to thousands of animals, including deer, coyotes, bobcats, foxes, turkeys, cranes, rabbits, owls, hawks and more. Guests may enjoy a variety of tastings from above the preserve on the terrace or even down on the water thanks to an outdoor tasting pavilion set along the large body of water on property. 

Lynmar Estate also takes advantage of the resplendent natural beauty around it, offering multi-course pairing lunches with an award-winning in-house chef using items grown directly on property amid the winery’s epic garden and farm. When in bloom, it is among the most beautiful views in California. 

Similarly spectacular is Ferrari-Carano, which is covered in olive trees and has one of the largest blooming gardens in the area. During the spring, it comes alive with vivid tulips, which are best enjoyed during brunch service or in the newly opened tasting salon, a reserve VIP experience.  

But wait, there’s more!

Bricoleur Vineyards is located on a former horse retirement sanctuary and has to be seen to be believed. The family who owns it were careful not to disrupt the farms, gardens, or even the horse barn too much. Instead, they worked to enhance it by re-imaging the barn into chic, wooded epicenter of wine tasting, pairing lunches and special events.

A must-book: Rooted. This six-course food and wine collaboration between Bricoleur Vineyards’ wines, Bricoleur culinary team and James Beard Award-winning chefs Charlie Palmer and Nate Appleman, Rooted is an epicurean adventure through the fresh produce, edible flowers, and herbs from the winery’s culinary garden as well as other ingredients native to California. 

Flowers Vineyards & Winery is tucked away a bit in a more remote area just beyond Bricoleur a few miles, but well worth the visit. In 2019, the award-winning winemaker opened the doors to one of the most ambitious tasting rooms in the region in its 15.5-acre House of Flowers estate on the northwest tip of Healdsburg complete with a winemaking facility, full hospitality center, expansive kitchen, an outdoor wood-fired oven and (of course) gardens. Minimalist and modern with sleek design and wood throughout, this palace that Pinot built is dripping with fireplaces, glass, artwork and warm furniture meant to make you want to kick back and stay all darned day.

For oysters and wine — yes, it is a thing — make a reservation at La Crema at Saralee’s Estate, a historically important vineyard that honest-to-goodness offers the chance to sample sparkling wines with oysters. Not a shellfish lover? There is also a caviar pairing and even one with a bevy of French-inspired small bites. 

Feeling fancy? Indulge in a private experience at Arista, which is a celebration of their Estate wines and ultra-premium tastes from the family-owned brand’s growing partners. The intimate exploration of award-winning Pinot Noir and Chardonnay is complemented by locally sourced goods, notably charcuterie, cheeses, and fruits. 

Itching for dessert? Do not miss Baldassari Family Wines. In addition to perfect Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Syrah and Malbec, they partner with Fleur Sauvage Truffles to do a chocolate pairing onsite.

Events are also a great way to spend a weekend in the region. One of the biggest takes place each November in the Wine and Food Affair. Others include Winter Wineland, Barrel Tasting and the Harvest Wine Trail. 

Finally, never drink and drive. Pure Luxury Transportation has been safely navigating guests across the region for more than 30 years. They can work with a planned itinerary or even help put one together, ensuring everyone stays safe while having an absolute blast. 

Dine: Delight in a variety of flavors and fare

Many of the vineyards have insane food pairing options. However, this does not mean one should miss the culinary scene in the area, because it is one of the most lauded in the country. 

In addition to Spoonbar noted above, no trip to the area is complete without a reservation at one or more of Dustin Vallette’s eateries. He is the mad scientist of scintillating, scrumptious delights at Vallette, The Matheson and Roof 106 in downtown Healdsburg. 

Lo & Behold Bar and Kitchen is another wow. The owners love having whimsical fun across the menu, both with the cocktails and dishes, and its small bites are what dreams are made of. 

If craving seafood, Willi’s Seafood & Raw Bar is the ticket as it excels at bite-sized and shareable seafood and shellfish options, including a laundry list of oysters. 

Seeking something with a history as impressive as the menu? Make a reservation for Catelli’s, which is a local landmark that has been in the same family for three generations and dates back to 1936. Today, it is lovingly run by chef and food personality Domenica Catelli. She melds old-school flavors from her Italian-born grandparents seamlessly with trending and local ingredients. Each dish is a work of edible art and somehow both rustic and modern at the same time. 

And finally, if looking for something totally new to the area, Molti Amici recently opened its doors and already has tongue wagging, in the best possible way.

Do: Water activities, fishing and hot air ballooning

There is more to do than simply eat and drink wine when in town, starting with the Russian River itself. It is a slow-moving waterway, so best for kayaking, paddleboarding, canoeing or even just relaxing in a tube. There are several beaches to enjoy, including Memorial Beach, which has a lifeguard on duty as well as outfitters who can provide rentals, self-guided tour maps, and full-service tours along the water. Burke’s Canoe Trips in the area offers canoe and/or kayaks, paddles, and life jackets for the day as does Water Treks EcoTours. They also have paddleboards and by about Memorial Day will have tours featuring beach walks for wildlife, water journeys and even bioluminescent adventures at night. 

There are also extensive fishing opportunities, especially for bass and steelhead, but it is important to check local guides and/or with one’s hotel one where to drop a line without trespassing. 

Finally, hot air ballooning is big in the Russian River Valley area. Available year round, there are ample balloon tours in nearly every direction, and groups like Up & Away Ballooning can plan a ride in line with a full day of wine tasting and epicurean exploration for groups both large and small.  

For more information, visit wineroad.com or download www.wineroadpodcast.com.